Monday, June 8, 2009

Salt

A quick note...

I love salt as much as the next person, it makes things flavorful, it keeps certain types of fish alive. It's great, not the least bit pricey.

Our meal Sunday night, however, was a bit overzealous about this already well established ingredient. Uncommon Ground lots it's nerve on our dishes, coating a duck breast and a fillet of halibut in the ground white dust. I was all excited at first. The halibut was served with fresh fava, sun chokes, and a watercress puree. It was beautiful, as noted to me by our charming server, but it was a salt fest. The Duck was no better, and the husband suffered and ate his without complaint...until we reached the outdoors, where he proceeded to ream the chef for his poor seasoning abilities. 

Just for the record we've never had a problem with this joint before, and we will probably go back again. But lighten up, Chef! Sodium kills.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Summer in Chicago

It's supposed to be summer, anyway. Everything around us says so, except the weather. Yes, we have been graced by 50-60 degree days and moderate-to-no sunshine. This is not summer weather, we keep telling ourselves that some day it will be warm enough to go to the lake and not wear gloves when we go out (example A: the woman getting groceries at local stop this a.m.). 

So we turned off the grill the other night and had comfort food instead. Well, what I think of as comfort food. My mother makes this pork tom sauce that was creation of once "frugal" gourmet, now peddling his pans in the great beyond. Very simple recipe that I actually have no idea what is really in the recipe since it varies by what is available. Pretty sure the orig includes celery, which is not my favorite, therefor it's not in our house, and so did not make the dish...My version DID include:

Browning two bone-in pork chops of a goodly size, then removing them to rest.
Sauteing carrots, onions and garlic in browned-bit pot.
Throwing in a tablespoon of Herbs de Provence, two dried bay leaves.
Adding one cup (or whatever) dry white wine. Letting alcohol cook off.
One very large can of crushed tom, one 14oz of petite diced.
Throwing meat back in with juice, and then cooking till falling apart.

Simple and yummy, served with noodles of whatever shape and size. We used wholewheat spaghetti I got from Lincolnwood produce. If you try to cook this kinds of pasta al dente it sometimes can be a little dry tasting, I let it go a minute or two more than I would normal noodles. 

We also had with it a roasted beet salad, recipe from Ev. Day Food.

Roast trimmed beets (skin on!) in foil pack with little s/p and oil at, maybe, 425 for 30-45 min. Depending on the size... When they cool, peal them, your hands will be pretty in pink, but that's some darn good stuff you're left with.
Slice beats to desired size. 
Combine 1/2c Greek yogurt, a couple of teaspoons of white wine vinegar, and Olive oil in a bowl, add water, 1 tablespoon?, to desired thinness.
(here's where we stopped following the recipe)
Chop 7-8 basil leaves and some fresh oregano and add to dressing. Season with s/p. 
Using romaine as a base, top with beets and dressing, add walnuts for crunch (at least that was the plan...I actually forgot them).

So it's not quite Summer, but not still Winter, and Spring already happened. But this meal set our souls at peace. These two dishes don't quite go together, but hey, goofy meal for goofy time of year. 





Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Absentee


It's been a bit, and I have eaten food since last writing. I assure you. Here's a recap of some of my favorite dining spots in Chicago over the last couple of months...


Sunda (north of the River)

We ventured here for a lush going away dinner for two very dear friends, who now are living in Houston where Alan is managing one of the top steak houses in the City. We had the Kobe beef sushi (you can see on the right) which were melt in your mouth, as well as a the Crispy Pata, very nice with the two accompanying sauces. We also had the long ribs which were great. The only thing about this place is that that bar service (not the table!) is awful. Completely non-attentive bartenders. I hope it has changed since were were there over a month ago!

The Gage (on Michigan near the Art Museum)

This is one of the few places open nights after we closed shows at the Harris Theater. Apart from being a little pricey, their menu is a tribute to the higher table of Irish cuisine. A good friend of mine ordered the Scotch Egg, probably the most elegant presentation that said dish will ever hold. And it's really good there, perfect combo of crispy outside, rich sausage-egg innards. Yum. The husband also enjoys their fish and chips, which are plentiful and served pseudo-newspapered. They used to have a great tuna tartar that was wonderful and light, but it is now absent from the menu. Recently I had a brunch there with a friend from out of town. They had one of my all time favorite dishes on the list, Corned Beef Hash, served with poached eggs. It was pretty good, kind of more like a potato and beef salad, not so hashy as usually seen in a diner, a little too salty. But pretty great, none the less!

Hot Doug's (the hot dog stand of hot dog stands)

I did not, sadly, have the foie gras dog...it was not on their rotating menu when I went with a could of good friends. I did have some winners, though my favorites were not what I expected. I really love their red hot dog, which is spicy and classic. We shared one with brie and cranberries, which was alright, and another with a pork sausage. The classic one still lingers in my mind as being one of the greats, however. A tip: know how you want your dogs cooked when you get to the front of the line (oh and there will be a line), and what you want on it. They apparently do not take kindly to the indecisive.

Uncommon Ground (East of Clark on Damen)

A cosy bistro type place, which frequently has live music. We came here a lot with friends this winter after rehearsals. They have a decent wine list and an excellent selection of items all made from somewhat local ingredients (more like, non-imports). The used to have this amazing burger, which I experienced on the eve of its removal from the menu. I can't even really remember what was on this thing. But it was so good, the juices once dripped down the arms of a companion while he dined. How's that for an image. And they took it away! It had these peppers on it that they were no longer able to get from a supplier inside the US. So they canceled the burger. I have also had the polenta as a main dish, and at the hours that we usually visit this joint, it's a perfect amount for a late night.

That's just a taste! More to come, we just bought a grill, so there will be many summer appropriate installments coming up!

Thursday, April 9, 2009

How long for lunch?

I have been into rehearsals now for a production at Chicago Opera Theater, which has made writing a bit of a back burner. One lovely thing, among many, that has come out of being down in Chicago's Loop, is that at lunch time there are so many little dive spots that I have yet to experience. One of my favorites is a Cuban cafe in the first floor of Chicago's hostel. Cafecito is a great place to grab a coffee or one of their lovely sandwiches. I so far have had the Cubano, and one with chorizo, sauteed onions, and chimichurri. They are a good price for downtown Chi-town. I highly recommend it. 

Another place I have been grabbing lunch is Osaka on the corner of Van Buren and Michigan (I think!). They have sushi lunch specials during the week days, along with offering a wide variety of other rolls and sushi pieces. Another great thing about this place is that they make a great smoothie, with or without tapioca, with a variety of fruit choices. Mine of late has been Coconut.

While I am sad that I have not been able to cook at home, let alone able to take my lunch (mainly because I do not have time to go to the store, and that frozen foods are not possible due to the large stash of hot dog buns in our freezer because of the show at the husband's theater company - Go see it!), I am grateful to these local joints for offering up good and reasonably cheap meal choices. 

More tid-bits to come I am sure. Easter's this weekend, look for lots of Lamby-love!

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Foodie Anniversary

I love weddings. Even better, weddings with good food. Our wedding had a huge spread of yummy treats, and so in tribute every year, we spend our anniversary indulging in foodie heaven.

Actually, the last two years we have been to the same place. Campagnola in Evanston is in the same circle of restaurants as Bistro Campagne in Lincoln square, and Union also in Evanston. We really enjoy their compressed menu, especially since they do not focus on pastas, like so many Italian joints here in the states. With an impressive list of antipasti including grilled radicchio, and various cold salads, along with a large secondi selection, this small darkened restaurant creates an authentic feel that is quite romantic. We were lucky to still get thier winter menu before it changed at the end of the week.

We started the evening with a glass of prosecco, and two antipasti. First we ordered the beef carpaccio - done almost the same way I had it in Lucca - with capers, arugula with a lite lemon and olive oil toss, and parmesian. Our second was a must-get whenever we eat here. They have an especially good fire roasted octopus. It is slightly different each time we come, due to the menu cycles. This time the chef paired it with green beans and re onions and a little olive coulis, with lemon zest shavings being the real light of the dish.

Whenever we dine here there is another dish that the husband insists that we have. They do a particularly good ragu with parpedelle, and if you ask, the server will kindly have the kitchen split an order for you into two bowls.

For the main dish, the husband had a very tender beef short rib, with polenta and rapini, which he said were a little too spicy and difficult to eat, but were good. I had the breast of pheasant, wrapped in bacon, drizzled with a little herbed oil, served on a bed of Israeli couscous tossed with English peas and pork belly cubes.

We finished with a little dolci, he with blackberry sorbet, and I with a walnut cake cooked in a creme fresh custard.

I think it was slightly overindulgent, but who's counting! Remembering one's wedding should always be cause for celebration.

Saturday, March 7, 2009

Stock you.

It's cold, and rainy, and I'm avoiding memorizing music. The husband has retreated to the den to fix the artistic world, and I'm drinking instant coffee from Starbucks. 

There are so many things not right about this picture, especially for a Saturday morn at 9am. 

What happened to the slow times?? I often comment that as Yanks - Americans in gen actually - we don't really understand the concept of "relax" and when we do, by the time there's time, we end up getting sick from our bodies getting ticked off at us.

In all the craziness of our world here at home, I decided this weekend I'd make some stocks. 

Different than broths - stocks are richer, more complex, darker, and generally just better.  I tend to think most companies that produce these kinds of ingredients don't like to market stocks because, well, they just take up too much darn time. We're talking about 12-14 hours total to produce (if you do it slow and right). Here's how you go about making a stock....

Get a lot of bones, of one kind of animal, unless you want like a strange kind for very specific dishes. For chicken use a whole carcase from a roaster, picked over for all the bits of meat still left. For beef, you can use those "soup bones" that they sometime have in the market - usually frozen. 

Put these bones into a roasting pan, or a oven safe container of some kind. Add one large onion cut up, one carrot, one stalk of celery. This is traditional. You can also throw in a few cloves of garlic. Or whatever other veg acout. that you like. Put into a 350 oven until it's brown, very deep brown. Not burnt but brown. 

This means the items have caramelized - all their sugars have been brought out to play in the sunshine, and now they're toasted!

Throw into a "stock" pot, top with cold water - a lot of cold water, like, 3 inches from the top full - throw in a bay leaf (or 3) some parsley sprigs, pepper corns, thyme sprigs, etc. It's great! As long as it's not dirty throw it in!!! You're gonna strain it all through a sieve later anyway!

Here comes the part that makes us all virtuous. Patience. 

You put this pot on the stove and simmer it (NOT BOIL) it for hours. I usually keep the lid on for at least 3 or 4 hours to really milk the flavor of the browned goodness submerged. Then I take it off and let it reduce for another 4-5 hours. Make sure you skim off the gross stuff on the surface every hour or so. That's the leftover junk from the bones that you don't want in your finished product.

Then Strain it, you can use cheese cloth, or a fine sieve, I use a sieve. 

Then I put it back in the pot and let it reduce a little more till it looks like the right color...what color? That's right, brown!!!

We usually keep a container in the fridge of about half, and then put the other half in the freezer. You can also put it into ice cube trays and the you'll have nuggets of stocky goodness to pull out whenever. 

If you keep reducing till there's almost no liquid left, it looks almost like a paste, this is a demi glace, and you can freeze this too. Then add a tablespoon of this to sauces, etc. 

I hope you'll try to make your own stock. Start using instead of broth for sauces, and soups. Though sometimes using a broth is the way to go, usually a chicken broth. Try the recipes both ways, one with broth and one stock. See which you like better. Kitchen basics also as a great line. 

You'll notice I didn't talk about adding salt. I like to only salt a tiny bit in the first stage, before roasting. This way you can completely control how much salt is in your final, FINAL product. I'm talking about the sauce or soup you use it in. Look on the back of a supermarket stock sometime, then ask yourself if you want to eat all that salt.

So enjoy the rainy day, take a few moments to throw some old bones and badly cut veggies into a pot. Make your own stock! It's so easy, even a French peasant in 1643 could do it, why not you!

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Restaurant Week...

Restaurant week was one of those thing last year that I really regretted missing. I think I was in Virginia while it was going on, and I missed the pre-fixed menu obsession that comes with the event. In Chicago, one week a year (though I think this week's event has been extended) you can go to some of Chicago's most select and order a three course lunch or dinner for fairly cheap. Places such a Nomi, Bin 36, and Cafe des Architectes seat you for minimal dollar.

This year we had time to go to lunch at Cafe des Architects in the Sofitel hotel lobby. We wanted to try for dinner, but due to busy lives and already booked reservations, lunch was all we could get in for.

Instead of a 3-course lunch, these guys did a 4-course, mirroring their Executive Express Lunch which the restaurant serves on a daily basis.

The meals come on one large white square plate, with 4 inner square plates, and the portions are quite small. We started with a Cauliflower soup with maybe a hint of truffle oil, or maybe it was just the mushrooms that topped. The Second course was "Octopus salad".

I love Octopus. and I love salads made of julienned apple. These two things mixed do not go well together however. It was much more satisfying to eat a bit of one then the other. And the cider vinegar dressing was way to overpowering.

We had a cut of hanger steak with a standard demiglace and some pureed root veggies. Pretty good, though nothing that blew my mind. And we finished with two small slices of a chocolate gateau. These were great, their pastry chef is a smart man. They had the wafer crispies in the bottom layer and I felt very child like eating them...except that I was surrounded by stuffy diners.

This place made me wonder about dining in NYC. It felt so claustrophobic and staunch that I was kind of uncomfortable. Not that I was going to do the wrong thing or eat with the wrong fork. But it was a sense that everyone there was trying to compensate for something else. Our waiter was great, but oh so formal. It completely contrasted the open modern whimsy of the space.

A well-to-do executive and his wife (or mistress) came in to eat. They sat near us on the other end of the two tops. They looked very busy and important, and the chef came out and chatted with them for a good 10 minutes.

They had burgers.

Pavarotti on food...

One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating. ~Luciano Pavarotti and William Wright, Pavarotti, My Own Story