Sunday, January 17, 2010

Chilam Balam!

As my final dinner "at-home", in Chicago in anycase, the husband and I went to Chilam Balam last night on Broadway in Lakeview. If you have not had a chance to go here, you should. The weekends are bustling and very busy. I'd reccomend, as did a staff member, coming on a Monday if you want immediate seating. We arrived at 6 and were granted a 45minute wait which we spent at the bar next door.

There isn't a whole lot of room to move around in Chilam Balam, the tables in close quarters in the small-ish basement establishment. And a passer by might even completely miss the signage out front. But once you do sit down and taste the food, small and larger plates, all the searching and waiting will not be in vain. Bring your favorite great wine, no corkage fee, and if you bring a cheap one they even have a sangria mix ready to go for you to pour your awful vintage into to try and make it better. From the amazing fresh look of the fruit and juice mix, I'd almost just drink it sans vin.

We ordered several small plates including the ceviche which was a whole mess of fun - without the mess, served with freshly made chips and lime on the side. Unlike some places, which serve it saturated with juices in a liquidy slosh, it was perfectly cured and cleanly presented from a ring mold. You could also taste every veggie that accompanied - especially the cucumbers which were extra yummy.

Another great dish was the duck tamale, topped with a mole negro. The corn taste in the masa was incredible and the shredded duck was tasty tasty. Topped with a refreshing celery root slaw and crunchy nuts it was a perfect combination of bitter and sweet, comforting flavors.

We also decided to get a larger plate and chose the "airline" chicken, which was so far from something you get on an airline. The dish drew us into it's smoky and sweet medly. The butternut squash mole was a perfect compliment, making a lighter statement than one would think. But my favorite part of this plate was the braised greens, which were bitter and wonderful. Honestly, how many times do you order a chicken dish when you're out?? This one should not be missed!

For dessert we had to get the Hibiscus flan, and while it was a bit thicker than you traditionally think of flan being, it made a nice close to the meal, and they comped us their GREAT Oaxacan hot chocolate, which the husband couldn't put down. I'd recommend reservations and it's not great for really large groups, but you have to get to this place. The chef, while on 23, is a cool cat and really knows what he's doing!

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Cassoulet Day 3 - the Conclusion!

We shopped, we cooked we conquered.

Honestly the best thing about cassoulet is that on the last day, all you do is bake it to reheat it and form the top crust. That being said, Bourdain's Cassoulet is a little untraditional, actually since, it has no breadcrumb top, and the overwhelming presence of the beans - too many in my opinion. But the meat was amazing and tender and tasty.

We had a few friends over to sample the goods, and the wine did floweth! We started the night with little cucumber canapés with a lemon creme fraiche and black roe topping with a prosecco. Then we started the dinner portion with a roasted beet salad over frisee with an orange vinnegrette and feta, paired with a Côtes du Rhône rose. Following that we had the cassoulet, heaping plates for all - a really dry red is perfect, and we chose a nice Bordeaux. Dessert was the husband's amazing lemon tart also from Bourdain's book with a great muscato.

Though it was a fun evening, it will be a while till we make it again. Cassoulet is more work than you think (especially if you confit the duck yourself!), and it takes a lot of funds to make this meal. Everyone should try to make something like this, especially if you don’t have to be the head chef!

Saturday, January 9, 2010

Cassoulet Days 1 and 2

I have been pushed from the kitchen. The husband has forbade me to have a primary hand in one of the greatest dishes ever. Cassoulet. He is he master of this creation and not I. And it might be slowly festering inside me, but I am making do as the prep and sous chef - even though he has taken away my cleaning duties as well...

If you'd like to follow along, we're making Bourdain's recipe from the Les Halles book. It's full of meat and wonderment. If you have never eaten cassoulet, or seen it, or heard of the thing, it is a one pot deal featuring as much meat as possible. Basically, it's white beans cooked in a dish lined with pork skin, with alternating layers of pork belly, duck confit, and pork sausage. That being said you can add whatever kind of meat you'd like, though this is traditional. The porkier the better. And the white beans make it healthy!

We began this dish with a three day plan, day one (Friday) was pretty simple, all we had to do was soak the beans over night and then salt the duck legs which were to be confit in the morning. We spent the time before starting the festivities with shopping. Off to Gene's in Lincoln Square for the ordering of the belly and skin to be picked up in the morning, as well as the duck legs.

We ended up soaking about 1/3 as many beans as we needed and awoke to them pouring out onto the kitchen counter. Then it was off to Paulina Market for the duck fat and the rest of the ingredients for our Sunday feast!

When we got home, the husband covered the duck in the liquid fat, along with rosemary, thyme and some garlic, and cooked it in the over at 375 for two hours (longer than the recipe asked, since our legs are actually quarters), the cooled it in the fridge. He then simmered the beans with pieces of the skin and fat as well as the belly, cooking the beans and creating a luscious broth. While that was cooking he fried the pork sausage in some of the reserved duck fat, and after used the remaining to brown onions and a few pieces of remaining fat from the belly which were pureed following the browning.

Once all the parts were sliced and diced and simmered, then came the layering. In the bottom of a large oven safe pot or dutch oven went skin first, then beans, the sausages, beans, pork belly, beans, duck confit, and more beans along with a dollop of the onion puree in each layer. Presently they are in the oven, and have to cook another hour. After they will sit over night in the fridge and have another session of cooking tomorrow!!!

As the sous chef, I don't see why I have to stay up and wait for them to finish their time in the oven tonight. Technically, I'm on vacation for another few days, so I'm heading to bed.

Pavarotti on food...

One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating. ~Luciano Pavarotti and William Wright, Pavarotti, My Own Story