Trencherman

In the old Spring location, Chicago's Trencherman has been plating up beautiful dishes since opening in  early July. We ventured out for their Christmas Eve prix-fixe 3-course menu with our friends and their 11 mo. old daughter for the (as it was put) "family seating." Because we were practically the first people, other than the staff, to step in the door that night they offered their apologies for not having our table ready; inclusively of them, "reservations for 4 with a baby" means just 4 human beings.

Once we were seated at our beautiful curved booth which reminded me of something out of Downtown Abbey, the delightful server took drink orders and the menu choices. Our friends chose from their amazing cocktail list two drinks that embodied the holiday spirit (featuring spiced "sparkling" vermouth), and we opted for the new Illinois Sparkling Co.'s Freak of Nature. GORGEOUS floral and citrus notes, the restaurant had just gotten a supply of their limited stock of this wine and if you can get your hands on a glass or even a bottle you should go for it. We've been wanting to head out of town to their tasting room, but our schedule hasn't been able to yet afford the 4 hour round trip excursion. :(

For the first course everyone, save moi, had the infamous "Pickle Tots"plated atop red onion yogurt with chicken bresaola. I chose the Brandade Cake, I can never say no to brandade. The cake is served with a charming little fried quail's egg, and pear and kale(?) garnish. It was a little on the dryer side, but the pickle tots are incredible. They definitely live up to the hype.

Second course we all had the Skate Wing offering except for one of our friends who went for the duck. A Peking-style breast with a paring of duck sausage, served atop sweet little doll-sized spaetzle. The Skate Wing was heavenly cooked and the sautéed cipollini onions, kale, and yuzu-sauce made a super tasty match. A really interesting, though minor, ingredient perched atop the fish was bacon that was so crispy it gave one the impression that maybe it had been slightly dehydrated before cooking. Kind of like turkey-bacon, but better. Because it was pork.

Then, holding a finger a side of her nose, the server brought MILK AND COOKIES before dessert!!! Honestly, this was my favorite part of the evening, and despite trying to avoid gluten I gorged on the floury stuff in the form of one of the best pieces of gingerbread I've ever had. Slightly crispy and caramelized on the ends and cake-y-chew in the middle. I think the key must be how thickly the dough was rolled, being one of the more girth-some gingerbread person I've ever eaten. The server was even kind enough to think to bring my lactose challenged friend a glass of the soy stuff.

Desert choices were between two of their cakes off the dessert menu; a coffee cake (made with real coffee, folks!) and the cognac brown butter cake. The first served with a chai-tofu ice cream (not dairy-free though) with smoky chocolate, while the cognac cake was accompanied by a ginger ice cream. Both were very good, but I think they could find something to sub in for one of the cakes at least. Rumor has it, however, that they have no pastry chef right now, correct me if I'm wrong! In that case, bravi to the lot of them for making the desserts work.

Overall, a merry experience! They are also doing a NYE set of menus if one feels so inclined! For my part, I'd like to come back sometime to experience sitting at their amazing bar for more of those beautiful cocktails - accompanied by pickle tots, certainement!